The surf spots of Ericeira

Ericeira became the first World Surfing Reserve in Europe in 2011 because of what sits inside a few kilometres of its coast: a string of right-hand reefs, from gentle to genuinely dangerous, that often work on the same swell. Add the beach breaks at either end and you have a full ladder in one small town.

Where beginners go

Foz do Lizandro, the river-mouth beach break at the south end of town, is the main learner wave, gentle and sand-bottomed on a small day. São Julião, a big open beach a few kilometres further south, is the other one -- it catches swell when everything else is flat, and most Ericeira schools use one of these two. The town beaches, Praia do Sul and Praia dos Pescadores, work for first steps on the smallest days.

The intermediate step-up

Ribeira d'Ilhas is the wave the World Surf League holds a contest on: a long, forgiving right over a cobblestone point, the most user-friendly of the reefs, with a channel to paddle out through. São Lourenço, the northernmost break, has multiple peaks and takes a range of sizes -- powerful but readable for a confident intermediate at a moderate size.

The advanced and expert reefs

Coxos is the standout: a powerful, board-snapping right point that is one of the best waves in the country and a territorial, local line-up. Cave and Reef break hard and shallow near the town. Pedra Branca, on the north side, is a fast, very shallow left rated the best lefthander in the reserve -- expert only, take-off straight over dry rock. On the biggest north swells São Lourenço turns into a big-wave spot.

Picking a spot

Learning, or a small clean day: Foz do Lizandro or São Julião. Intermediate and the reserve is on: Ribeira d'Ilhas. Confident on reefs: São Lourenço, then Coxos when you are ready and welcome. Everything else here is watch-first. The reefs are rock in shallow water and the pecking order is real -- when in doubt, book a guided session with a local school.